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Patterson Great Falls

Patterson, NJ

40.91652859816161, -74.18161869049072

Patterson, NJ is an old mill town around 20 miles northwest of New York City. Its prime geologic feature is the Great Falls, where the Passaic River has a dramatic 77 foot drop over a formation of basalt rock. The falls were formed around 11,000 BC at the end of the last Ice Age. The falls were a prime attraction to late 18th century industrialists and water diverted through "raceways" from above the falls was used to power numerous mills and factories in the area in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

The park on the northeast bluff overlooking the falls is named for Mary Ellen Kramer (1937-1993), the wife of former mayor Lawrence Kramer who lead the campaign to preserve and redevelop the historic mill district in Paterson. Her efforts preserved an important industrial archeological area that ultimately was designated as a national landmark. (reference)


Paterson Great Falls

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Passaic River flowing toward the falls

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Passiac River flowing toward the falls

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Great Falls - View from the north

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Great Falls - View from the north

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Service building in Mary Ellen Kramer Park

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Mary Ellen Kramer Park

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Stairway down to viewing area on the south bank

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View from the east bank

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Great Falls video

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Pedestrian and utility bridges

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Vandalized memorial plaque

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Visitors on pedestrian bridge over gorge

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Pipeline over gorge

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Great Falls view from southeast bank

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Water flow into the gorge

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Overlook park

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West bank of gorge

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Ducks swimming above the falls

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Dam and Wayne Avenue bridge just above the falls

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Passaic River flowing downstream of falls

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View of the falls from Overlook Park

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Passaic River flowing downstream from the falls

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View of the falls from Overlook Park

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Paterson Raceway

Alexander Hamilton and George Washington visited the Great Falls and began to imagine the industrial potential of the area. In 1791, Hamilton and others founded the Society for Establishing Usefull Manufactures (S.U.M.) and a "raceway" was designed by Pierre Charles L'Enfant (chief architect and planner of Washington, DC) to divert water from above the falls into the area's first mill. The design was simplified by Peter Cold and went into operation in 1794 and extended in 1801 to power additional mills. A major expansion in 1828 added an upper raceway that extended to the south, then looped back to the north to connect to the existing raceway. The final modification was made in 1838 to replace the source reservoir with with a masonry dam across the river and a new channel through rock to feed the raceway. In 1876, the S.U.M. estimated the available water power at 2,108 horsepower (1.6 MW), with about 87% of that actually being harnessed. The raceway served the community for the remainder of the 19th century before being outmoded in the early 20th century. (reference)


Gate to the raceway

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Gate to the raceway

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Upper raceway north of Spruce Street

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Raceway historic sign

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ASCE/ASME Landmark plaque (1977)

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1828-Present raceway maps

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1792-1827 raceway maps

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Raceway park map

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Historic district map

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Upper raceway king post truss bridge over spillway

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Spillway gate

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Looking down from spillway at Spruce Street bridge

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Upper raceway headed south

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Looking down from upper raceway into mill district

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Upper raceway headed south

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Upper raceway headed south

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Looking back at uppper raceway

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Truss bridge over upper raceway

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Truss bridge over upper raceway

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Spillway to lower raceway

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Spillway to lower raceway

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Lower raceway headed back north

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Looking down on the lower raceway and surrounding mills

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Building over the lower raceway

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Building over the lower raceway

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Passaic Paper Mill Flume historic sign

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Truss bridge over lower raceway

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King post truss detail

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Lower raceway flowing from the South

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Lower raceway flowing from the South

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Ivanhoe Paper Mill building

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Ivanhoe Wheelhouse historic sign

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Lower raceway intersecting spillway from upper raceway

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Spillway from upper raceway

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Spillway

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Spillway

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Raceway

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Remnants of Ivanhoe Paper Mill

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Spruce Street bridge over raceway

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Spruce Street bridge

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Spruce Street bridge

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Raceway east of Spruce Street

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Raceway headed east from Spruce Street

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Mounting of some kind on shore of raceway

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Bus depot

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Raceway east of Spruce Street

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My tour of the raceway ended at a fence surrounding the ruins of the Allied Textile Printing Facility, which has been the source of great controversy between developers who covet its lovely river views and preservationists who covet its industrial legacy.


Raceway south of Ellison Street

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Raceway south of Ellison Street

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Franklin Mill (1910) - converted to offices in 1984

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Ellison Street Bridge plaque (1999)

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Raceway

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Raceway headed into Allied Textile Printing site

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Raceway headed into Allied Textile Printing site

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Flow control gates

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Flow control gates

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Allied Textile Printing ruins

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Repurposed mill buildings

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Stray kitten

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Union Works building (1827/1890)

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Union Works building

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Great Falls Generating Station

Between 1912 and 1914, the Great Falls Generating Station was built just to the south of the falls. It has a nameplate 10.95 kilowatts, quite tiny by modern standards, but a meaningful contribution to the area's industrial infrastructure at the time.


Headhouse of generating plant

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Generating plant intake gate

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Generating plant sign

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Intake warning signs

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Power plant historic sign

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Power plant headhouse

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Power plant intake

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Power plant intake

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Generating station

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Power plant outflow

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Generating station

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Memorial plaque

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View from Overlook Park of river flowing away from the falls

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Harry Haines Memorial Park plaque

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Allied Textile Printing site description sign

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Park balconies

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View of the falls from behind the generating station

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Overlook Park dedication plaque

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31 McBride Avenue

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31 McBride Avenue

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Abandoned buildings on McBride Avenue

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Paterson Museum Locomotives

The former Rogers Locomotive and Machine Works erecting shop building became home to the Paterson Museum, which hosts a pair of old locomotives. Both were build in Paterson, although neither came from the Rogers factory.

Panama Railroad Locomotive 299 was the last known locomotive used for the construction of the Panama Canal. It was built by American Locomotive at Cooke Works in 1906 and had a purchase price of $11,307. The 63-ton 2-6-0 (Mogul) engine (with a 49-ton tender car) had a tractive effort of 23,980 lbs at 10 MPH (640 HP or 476 kW) and could pull 3,317 tons on level track.

A smaller 0-4-0 locomotive was built by Cooke in 1911 as American Brake Shoe & Foundry Co. #1 and was retired in 1964 as Wanamaker, Kempton & Southern, Inc. #3.


Paterson Museum locomotives

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Panama Railroad #299

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Panama Railroad #299

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Panama RR #299 and the author

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A.B.S.&F #1

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A.B.S.&F #1 firebox and controls

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A.B.S.&F #1 tender car

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A.B.S.&F #1 and the author

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Paterson NJ Transit station

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NJ Transit train arriving (video)

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Hinchliffe Stadium

40.91856757810943, -74.18228387832642

Hinchliffe Stadium sits to the north of the Great Falls behind School #5 in a fairly impoverished neighborhood sitting on the cliffs above the postindustrial fray of the city. It's a lovely but faded exemplar of Art Deco that was built in 1932 for $350,000 and enlarged in 1964. It's most notable role was as home to the New York Black Yankees and New York Cubans of the Negro Baseball League, and it hosted that league's championship in 1933. The Paterson School District ultimately took over the stadium, but had to abandon it in 1997 when a sinkhole in the east end-zone became a safety issue. The district fell into state receivership, leaving no funds for any kind of maintenance, although in 2002, Friends of Hinchliffe Stadium was formed to help restore the facility. (reference)


Hinchliffe Stadium behind School 5

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Hinchliffe Stadium - Northwest entrance

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Hinchliffe Stadium - Northwest entrance

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Northern wall

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North ticket window

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Sign over gate

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Overgrown entrance

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Maple Street side looking southeast

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West ticket window

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Javelin bas relief

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Press box

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Press box

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Shower stalls

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Toilet stalls

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Maple Street side looking northwest

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Eastern stands

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Path on south side to fence hole

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Fence hole

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View of full horseshoe

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Eastern stands

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Scoreboard

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Overgrown eastern corner

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Fiberglass benches

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Eastern stands - note peace sign

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Scoreboard and overgrown track

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Paterson, NJ in 2010

When I visited Paterson in the Summer of 2010, it was a fairly rugged place, with large pockets of poverty amidst the abandoned and repurposed infrastructure. Headed up the hill from the city to Hinchliffe Stadium, I crossed the river downstream of the Great Falls over the West Broadway Bridge (1897).


Passaic River downstream of the falls

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West Broadway Bridge - west side

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West Broadway Bridge - west side

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West Broadway Bridge - deck looking northwest

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Concrete-Metal Bridge, Designed and Built by Keepers & Thacher, Paterson, NJ 1897

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West Street Bridge plaque

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2007 rehabilitaion plaque

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West Street Bridge plaque

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West Broadway Bridge - deck looking southeast

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Private truss bridge West of the West Broadway Bridge

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Private truss bridge

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Walking uphill on Ryle Avenue, I passed the abandoned facilities of the Addy Mills and Columbia Textile Mills, both EPA brownfields sites. I also passed signs advertising The Vistas, a condo development on the bluffs above the river downstream of the falls that appears to have been derailed either by the Great Recession or the crappy neighborhood.


Riverview Towers

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Ryle Avenue headed uphill to the west

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Ryle Avenue

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Columbia Textile Mills - Ryle Avenue

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Columbia Textile Mills - Ryle Avenue

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Columbia Textile Mills - Ryle Avenue

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Former site of Addy Mills

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Hillside houses on Totowa Avenue

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Hillside houses on Totowa Avenue

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Iglesia Universal - 86 Marion St

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Kearney Street

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PWC subsurface access

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The Vistas - advertisement

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Warehouse - 468 Totawa Ave

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Electronic Transformer Corp.

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School 5 bas relief

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School 5 - Totawa Ave entrance

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School 5 trim

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Sunshine trim over doorway

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School 5 sign

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